1st year painting today, continue with our onion/pepper still life. The pencil drawing I did at the beginning I spent a lot of time on, longer than I would normally with a simple still life. But I've been trying to take it into heart the whole idea of 'look deeper' that I keep hearing in the nihon-ga department. Today was about color, we had done the shadows with sumi-e and a put on a base-color of ochre. Sensei had some difficulty explaining things, obviously, so he demonstrated a lot of the technique. But still, I kept looking and working, and he'd come along and say just to put a whole 'nother coat on. I'm still trying to understand whats possible using these japanese paints, what colors I can use with which other colors, if I can layer dark on light and light on dark and everything in between, to make it look right. I keep thinking I have a grasp on it, then one of my Sensei will come along and demonstrate something that completely voids my thinking. Theres a formula, but the language makes it hard to figure out. I was told japanese paints are not watercolors, which I understand why it was said, so I guess there's that!
I was asked if students work with paints like these, where you combine the pigment and the glue. Nope. Tempera painting at it's finest.
30.4.08
29.4.08
Kibune
Kibune is a popular escape from Kyoto, especially in the summer when the restaurants there serve lunch on shaded river platforms. As I walked north up the street, I saw them building these platforms and imagined sitting above the cool river, listening to the water sounds all around. Pleasures of that sort don't come cheap though, as lunch at places like this cost around ¥5000, so I'd be just as happy with a bento sitting on some grass at the riverside.
I walked north and purchased a mochi from a vendor, there were a few different flavors, but I just chose one at random. Passed some more giant cedar trees, then saw a small parking lot to the right, with a posted map and a trail leading up. Looked like a small loop, and going up the trail I was the only one around. It was very steep climbing, and the trail was slightly overgrown. I had great views of the opposing mountains and was excited to see where I was going, but then it all came to an end and the trail was blocked. Turning around, I went back down and again, continued to follow the road north. As I went past a small shrine on my left, the area became more secluded, no more houses, no one around and no traffic.
I followed the road up, with the river beside me. Eventually I came to a turn off, with the main road going left, and a smaller, somewhat muddy road to the right. You can guess which way I went. The river had become a stream to my left, and above me on the slopes all I could see were endless cedar trees. The muddy road became a muddy path, then a muddy trail. I disturbed a crane and it flew away ahead of me, only to be disturbed again a few minutes later. The trail became more challenging, steep, slippery, and covered with fallen ceder branches. I passed a sign that allowed me to see where I was on the map I had, but by then I was pretty hungry and only had a few more hours of daylight, so instead of continuing into unfamiliar terrain on an unfamiliar loop, I turned around the way I came. I made MUCH better time going downhill.
Back through Kibune, along the road and to the train station, I exited at my transfer point and had a cheap dinner. Then back to Kyoto station and home.
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I walked north and purchased a mochi from a vendor, there were a few different flavors, but I just chose one at random. Passed some more giant cedar trees, then saw a small parking lot to the right, with a posted map and a trail leading up. Looked like a small loop, and going up the trail I was the only one around. It was very steep climbing, and the trail was slightly overgrown. I had great views of the opposing mountains and was excited to see where I was going, but then it all came to an end and the trail was blocked. Turning around, I went back down and again, continued to follow the road north. As I went past a small shrine on my left, the area became more secluded, no more houses, no one around and no traffic.
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I followed the road up, with the river beside me. Eventually I came to a turn off, with the main road going left, and a smaller, somewhat muddy road to the right. You can guess which way I went. The river had become a stream to my left, and above me on the slopes all I could see were endless cedar trees. The muddy road became a muddy path, then a muddy trail. I disturbed a crane and it flew away ahead of me, only to be disturbed again a few minutes later. The trail became more challenging, steep, slippery, and covered with fallen ceder branches. I passed a sign that allowed me to see where I was on the map I had, but by then I was pretty hungry and only had a few more hours of daylight, so instead of continuing into unfamiliar terrain on an unfamiliar loop, I turned around the way I came. I made MUCH better time going downhill.
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Back through Kibune, along the road and to the train station, I exited at my transfer point and had a cheap dinner. Then back to Kyoto station and home.
Kurama-dera
Being a holiday, the trains were somewhat crowded as I headed north of Kyoto into the Kitayama mountains. I had to transfer a few times, but knew it'd be worth it when I saw the view as I exited the train at Kurama station on the northern Keihan line. I passed some obvious tourist shops on the short walk to the temple gates, and a shuttle bus advertising Kurama Onsen. I've noticed little packets like these, of... something, in many shops, it looks kind of gooey, maybe even fishy, the packaging is so plain as to give no clue and I haven't stopped to translate the signs yet. Continued up the road, to the temple entrance, paid a ¥200 entrance fee, then started walking up. And up. It was stairs and switchbacks going higher and higher and I passed multiple gates, shrines, giant cedar trees, and few different buildings. One building had a scale model of the mountain and temple. There was also a trolley part of the way, but I passed that by. Eventually I came to an overlook with benches.
From the overlook it was all stairs to the top and the main temple. The inside of the temple was all glitter and gold, japanese art, incense and candles. I was not allowed to take pictures, nor would I have anyway. It was a nice clearing, views all around and people were eating their bento lunches. Made me wish I had brought one. The wind picked up and blew the cherry blossoms from the trees, a little girl ran around catching them in her hat. Off to the left, the trail continued to the summit. There was a bin here with hiking sticks that anyone could use and leave at the other end. The stairs were well worn, steep in parts, and it was popular day to be out. There were only a few parts along this trail where I wasn't in sight of at least 2 other hikers. Passed a few smaller shrines along the way, and the main bell tower. Reaching the summit there was a clearing covered with the exposed roots of sugi trees. A slight detour took me to the remains of an ancient cedar tree, my picture does not do justice to its size and majesty. The descending trail was quieter, less crowded.
I passed some smaller shrines on the way down, and hikers on their way up. Also a pilgrim with his bell. Almost to the end of the trail there was an old fuji tree, ancient and impossibly twisted. I crossed a small bridge and I was in the town of Kibune.
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From the overlook it was all stairs to the top and the main temple. The inside of the temple was all glitter and gold, japanese art, incense and candles. I was not allowed to take pictures, nor would I have anyway. It was a nice clearing, views all around and people were eating their bento lunches. Made me wish I had brought one. The wind picked up and blew the cherry blossoms from the trees, a little girl ran around catching them in her hat. Off to the left, the trail continued to the summit. There was a bin here with hiking sticks that anyone could use and leave at the other end. The stairs were well worn, steep in parts, and it was popular day to be out. There were only a few parts along this trail where I wasn't in sight of at least 2 other hikers. Passed a few smaller shrines along the way, and the main bell tower. Reaching the summit there was a clearing covered with the exposed roots of sugi trees. A slight detour took me to the remains of an ancient cedar tree, my picture does not do justice to its size and majesty. The descending trail was quieter, less crowded.
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I passed some smaller shrines on the way down, and hikers on their way up. Also a pilgrim with his bell. Almost to the end of the trail there was an old fuji tree, ancient and impossibly twisted. I crossed a small bridge and I was in the town of Kibune.
Cash
Japan is a cash society. You can use a ¥10000 bill to pay for a ¥300 meal from a street cart and nobody will blink. Few places, even big stores, accept credit cards. BIC Camera, which is a big electronics store by Kyoto Station, frequented by many tourists and foreigners, is the only place I've seen with credit card logos by the register.
I paid for utilities today by taking my bills (which they had mailed) to FamilyMart24 (a convenience store), where they scanned the bar code on the bill and rung it up just like any item in the store. Super easy, very convenient.
I paid for utilities today by taking my bills (which they had mailed) to FamilyMart24 (a convenience store), where they scanned the bar code on the bill and rung it up just like any item in the store. Super easy, very convenient.
28.4.08
hirugohan
Had an interesting lunch today. The cafeteria has specials each day, one tends to be asian the other more western. I still can't really read everything on the food-ticket machine (which by the way I've seen elsewhere, especially at restaurants in stations, quick easy way to separate the money exchange from the food preparation), but I can usually figure out which button to press, or in a pinch I know which one is the ramen. The dish today, they made me a vegetable omelet, put it on top of a pile of rice in a big bowl, then poured a thick soup on top. I enjoyed it.
Worked in the library for awhile, then Japanese class felt pretty good, then I went home. Tuesday is a holiday so I'm deciding what I'll do.
Worked in the library for awhile, then Japanese class felt pretty good, then I went home. Tuesday is a holiday so I'm deciding what I'll do.
Showa Day (Showa no hi):
April 29 is the birthday of former Emperor Showa, who died in the year 1989. Until 2006, Greenery Day (see May 4) used to be celebrated on this day.
27.4.08
Nothing really
I almost went hiking, but I just wasn't up for it. Spent most of the day cleaning up and studying. Playing with my new japanese dictionary. Of course not all work, and I watched Ghost in the Shell, a classic of japanese animation. It was too bad the only version I could find on torrent was the english-dub version. For dinner, went and got some discounted sushi at the coop. All grocery stores have some kind of prepared food, a bakery, or stir-fry or sushi. About an hour before close, all the prepared food gets marked discounted, so if you wait to have a later meal it's a good deal. Another time I had gone out and stopped at a larger grocery store, around markdown time. There were maybe two dozen shoppers crowded around the grocery employee, just instantly grabbing up the marked-down food as she put the discount sticker on each container.
26.4.08
karaoke
After the shrine, I boarded the train again to meet up with some international friends I had met. I got off at the Keihan-Sanjo station, walked over the bridge and down to the river bank. There's a path on both sides of the river, popular for walking and biking, and on good-weather nights, drinking and socializing. It was the first warm weekend night and there were many people out. Clumps of people sitting on the bank, or just milling about, even someone in the river itself, wading in the cool water. Some Japanese swinging poi and playing drums showed up, another group stood in a circle singing. Later, the fire poi came out. Good fun, some beer, meeting new people, then it was time and a group of us went off to get some food.
We went to a place called Sunshine Cafe, which served something of a fusion menu. The food was excellent. They also had beer cocktails, which they mixed with juice, there was Pomegranate, Tomato and some others. Tomato was ok, but the Pomegranate was better, almost like a lambic but less carbonation.
After food, we left and met up with some others at karaoke. In the US people normally picture a crowded bar with everyone taking turns on a stage, but the asian version of karaoke is somewhat different. You pay by the hour, and it's all you can drink. You're taken to a small room, just your group of people, with a table, a TV, and seats all around. Very intimate. 2 microphones and an electronic device that allows you to select the songs. Also a phone on the wall, which you use to order more drinks, keep those pitchers coming! It's mostly a sing-a-long with everyone joining in, maybe it was just the crowd, and there was a lot of western music played, but I think even Japanese singers would pick a lot of western songs. Still, fun to try those Japanese, reading hiragana sing-a-longs too. Taxi ride back to Nagaokakyo and call it a night.
We went to a place called Sunshine Cafe, which served something of a fusion menu. The food was excellent. They also had beer cocktails, which they mixed with juice, there was Pomegranate, Tomato and some others. Tomato was ok, but the Pomegranate was better, almost like a lambic but less carbonation.
After food, we left and met up with some others at karaoke. In the US people normally picture a crowded bar with everyone taking turns on a stage, but the asian version of karaoke is somewhat different. You pay by the hour, and it's all you can drink. You're taken to a small room, just your group of people, with a table, a TV, and seats all around. Very intimate. 2 microphones and an electronic device that allows you to select the songs. Also a phone on the wall, which you use to order more drinks, keep those pitchers coming! It's mostly a sing-a-long with everyone joining in, maybe it was just the crowd, and there was a lot of western music played, but I think even Japanese singers would pick a lot of western songs. Still, fun to try those Japanese, reading hiragana sing-a-longs too. Taxi ride back to Nagaokakyo and call it a night.
伏見稲荷大社
I purchasing some takeout sushi in Kyoto station, then boarded a train south towards Fushimi Inari Taisha. This is one of the most well known shrines in Kyoto, if not Japan, and you've probably seen pictures or heard of it even if you weren't sure what it was. Situated on the side of a mountain, with miles of trails leading above, Fushimi Inari is known for the thousands and thousands of red torii lining the path.
I saw one pilgrim walking the trail and purposefully touching every torii. I walked the path as dusk fell, and into the night. Besides the large torii you walk though, there are thousands of smaller torii situated within a maze of smaller, individual shrines with fox statues and candles and bells. There was hardly anyone on the path besides myself, and I could hear the birds and wild all around me. I even saw some wildlife, a red fox crossed my path and ran away from me, and a pair of raccoon dogs stared down at me from the path above before disappearing.
I followed the paths down, passing countless shrines and through countless torii. I went a different route out than in, so I didn't pass through the main shrine, and instead the neighborhood of houses below slowly merged and replaced the shrine.
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I saw one pilgrim walking the trail and purposefully touching every torii. I walked the path as dusk fell, and into the night. Besides the large torii you walk though, there are thousands of smaller torii situated within a maze of smaller, individual shrines with fox statues and candles and bells. There was hardly anyone on the path besides myself, and I could hear the birds and wild all around me. I even saw some wildlife, a red fox crossed my path and ran away from me, and a pair of raccoon dogs stared down at me from the path above before disappearing.
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I followed the paths down, passing countless shrines and through countless torii. I went a different route out than in, so I didn't pass through the main shrine, and instead the neighborhood of houses below slowly merged and replaced the shrine.
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Mibu Kyogen
The day started with a train ride into Kyoto. Hankyu line this time, which makes more local stops and doesn't go directly to Kyoto Station. Beyond that it's basically the same and public transportation in Japan is very efficient (though the cost adds up). Kristine and I exited at our station, then navigated to Mibudera Temple where we met a Japanese classmate and were to see Nenbutsu kyogen aka mibu kyogen, a form of japanese theater originating over 700 years ago at this same temple. I didn't know anything about it, and it was only after looking on the internet for more information that I discovered mibu kyogen was different from other kyogen performances. Other kyogen performances involve dialogue, but this was silent pantomime. The performers enter the stage from the left, wearing ornate wooden masks that hide all facial expressions and give then an aura of caricature. Musical accompaniment is in the form of a flute, drums, and a gong. Performers act out the story in exaggerated movements, dance, pauses, and move very gracefully.
It was very interesting to watch, and obviously a tradition as there were many western and Japanese tourists, along with locals. Each story went on for maybe 50minutes, and we stayed for 3 of them, as interesting as it was to experience, it wasn't something that we really wanted to watch for long periods of time. On our way out, a pigeon flew from a nearby roof and landed on my arm, I was shocked, but I'll take it to mean good luck.
After kyogen, I walked south to Kyoto station where I stopped at Bic Camera and purchased an electronic dictionary. I had done my research and found the one I wanted (Canon Wordtank G90). The Jap-English dictionaries, which there are a lot of them in Japan, are mostly designed for Japanese studying English, or Japanese studying Chinese, or Japanese studying Japanese (there are a LOT of kanji with many meanings). So Jap-English dictionaries are mostly designed for Japanese, some of them have english settings, as does mine, but still if you look up a word in english, like 'hair', you're given a definition written in japanese, which can then lead to having to look up the pronunciation of the kanji for hair, if you can even find which kanji in the definition represents hair. So having a dictionary does not mean you can always communicate, but it's a great resource, especially because I can draw unknown kanji to look them up.
It was very interesting to watch, and obviously a tradition as there were many western and Japanese tourists, along with locals. Each story went on for maybe 50minutes, and we stayed for 3 of them, as interesting as it was to experience, it wasn't something that we really wanted to watch for long periods of time. On our way out, a pigeon flew from a nearby roof and landed on my arm, I was shocked, but I'll take it to mean good luck.
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After kyogen, I walked south to Kyoto station where I stopped at Bic Camera and purchased an electronic dictionary. I had done my research and found the one I wanted (Canon Wordtank G90). The Jap-English dictionaries, which there are a lot of them in Japan, are mostly designed for Japanese studying English, or Japanese studying Chinese, or Japanese studying Japanese (there are a LOT of kanji with many meanings). So Jap-English dictionaries are mostly designed for Japanese, some of them have english settings, as does mine, but still if you look up a word in english, like 'hair', you're given a definition written in japanese, which can then lead to having to look up the pronunciation of the kanji for hair, if you can even find which kanji in the definition represents hair. So having a dictionary does not mean you can always communicate, but it's a great resource, especially because I can draw unknown kanji to look them up.
25.4.08
の
Language lessons today after school. I was very tired by that point, and had been feeling off for most of the day. Still, went ok, I understand the concepts and can follow them when communicating, but recollection is hard, along with all that vocabulary. Also, Japanese has a lot of words that are almost the same, but mean different things depending on context. はし (ha-shi) is a good example, as it means either 'chopstick', or 'end' depending on the context. It can be written as two different kanji but the sound is almost the same with just an up-note or a down-note of the second syllable. But ya, lots of words sound the same but have different meaning, moreso than just the english their-there-they're.
24.4.08
Ooops
Japanese art history lecture this morning. I had some idea what he was talking about as it involved many slides of european art, then japanese art and discussions (somewhat) about influences between them.
Painting, started working on the background. Matsumoto Sensei for thursdays is very nice, but does not have much confidence in her own english, though she writes very well. So most of our communication is in writing. I learned a lot more about the process of a nihonga painting, gained an overall understanding of all the steps, but at the same time brought about a situation I thought was very very funny.
Up till now, in three of my studio classes I've been working on the same 18"x24" painting, they're somewhat slow showing me things simply because each layer needs to dry before going on to the next and they haven't really explained things in advance. I get the impression that they only expect me to do a single painting through the entire semester, which is what the japanese students are expected to do (though theirs is larger), and I only really see other students working during class time. The mentality in my upper-level classes is very much, work slow, don't take chances, don't make mistakes. That's not how I work, and as part of my stated intent, I'm here to focus on studio work, which involves many more hours than just class time. I've been working slowly and with focus, but I will take chances with some things, as that's the only way I can learn the limits of the material.
Anyway, the funny situation was from miscommunication and japanese indirectness. We were working on the background of my painting, and I was trying to ask questions and gain insight into what was, and wasn't possible as far as color usage (ordering my layers), direction, and brush (as far as different effects). I don't think Sensei really understood everything I was trying to say, along with not wanting to make decisions for me, so I ended up mixing up too dark of a color and at first had striation problems, which I agreed when she told me the striations between my brush strokes were not beautiful, she tried to demonstrate a way of covering these over with fluttering brush strokes, but I didn't have the gentle touch she had and made somewhat of a mess. The look on her face, she was just horrified. Then it got even worse when Maraoka Sensei (who speaks better english) came in and saw how horrified she was. I did my best to explain what my intention had been, and a bit about my own learning philosophy, and it was fine in the end. I'm not about to stop working on that particular painting, but I'll start some others and be more careful now that I know more.
Painting, started working on the background. Matsumoto Sensei for thursdays is very nice, but does not have much confidence in her own english, though she writes very well. So most of our communication is in writing. I learned a lot more about the process of a nihonga painting, gained an overall understanding of all the steps, but at the same time brought about a situation I thought was very very funny.
Up till now, in three of my studio classes I've been working on the same 18"x24" painting, they're somewhat slow showing me things simply because each layer needs to dry before going on to the next and they haven't really explained things in advance. I get the impression that they only expect me to do a single painting through the entire semester, which is what the japanese students are expected to do (though theirs is larger), and I only really see other students working during class time. The mentality in my upper-level classes is very much, work slow, don't take chances, don't make mistakes. That's not how I work, and as part of my stated intent, I'm here to focus on studio work, which involves many more hours than just class time. I've been working slowly and with focus, but I will take chances with some things, as that's the only way I can learn the limits of the material.
Anyway, the funny situation was from miscommunication and japanese indirectness. We were working on the background of my painting, and I was trying to ask questions and gain insight into what was, and wasn't possible as far as color usage (ordering my layers), direction, and brush (as far as different effects). I don't think Sensei really understood everything I was trying to say, along with not wanting to make decisions for me, so I ended up mixing up too dark of a color and at first had striation problems, which I agreed when she told me the striations between my brush strokes were not beautiful, she tried to demonstrate a way of covering these over with fluttering brush strokes, but I didn't have the gentle touch she had and made somewhat of a mess. The look on her face, she was just horrified. Then it got even worse when Maraoka Sensei (who speaks better english) came in and saw how horrified she was. I did my best to explain what my intention had been, and a bit about my own learning philosophy, and it was fine in the end. I'm not about to stop working on that particular painting, but I'll start some others and be more careful now that I know more.
23.4.08
umeboshi
Pickled plums! I was out on some errands and saw a little produce stand (common everywhere), selling umeboshi. These are said to waken the taste buds and to be very healthy for any ailment. They come in different sizes, this is the first time I've seen the larger ones. People have one with breakfast, or with lunch, or with dinner. They're also supposed to be great for hangovers. The first one I had, whoa thats sour! But I've gotten used to them and they're really tasty, expect I'll have some in the fridge at all times.
Painting class (1st year), we traced our drawing, pasted it down, and started working on shading. As I've mentioned, japanese paints are translucent like water colors, so one builds up color and darkness in many layers. Near the end of class, we put an ochre color over top. Starting to understand more the methods to these materials.
Painting class (1st year), we traced our drawing, pasted it down, and started working on shading. As I've mentioned, japanese paints are translucent like water colors, so one builds up color and darkness in many layers. Near the end of class, we put an ochre color over top. Starting to understand more the methods to these materials.
22.4.08
shiroy
Painting, learned to mix up some colors, most interesting was white. It's the only color that requires a mortar-pestle to grind, then you slowly add the nikiwa (glue) and work it into a little ball, much like clay. Then you throw it against the sara (dish) many many times. After you're done with this you can press it down into the sara then use water with it much like water color. Japanese paints are a type of tempera paint, and most of them you can let dry out then use water with them again, but the exception is white, which you need to prepare again each day. Sensei spent extra time showing me some of this stuff, and class went over, which made me late for the appointment I had with a language instructor at a cafe near the Hankyu station.
First time meeting her, and I thought it went well, different style and atmosphere than my class on mondays, and similarly priced. Good addition, but I'm not really doing enough self-study the last week in between my attempts at conversation with people. I can do better.
On my way back, went to pick up my phone. I had set up a prepaid handset previously, but didn't have my alien registration card at the time. I was able to get the idea across, and then get an answer to my question regarding email (more in a moment), but it took forever! I don't know what was going on, but I was in that shop for more than an hour waiting for the guy to set things up on the computer. But it's all good, the phone itself is light, thin and sexy. With a camera, video screen, email, very nice. Talking on phones in Japan is very expensive, outgoing that is as any incoming calls are free. That's why people on limited plans needing to call someone, will often ask to be called back, reverse the charges as it were. Data though, is amazing. ¥300 and I have unlimited email from my phone for 30 days, then ¥300 after that to renew. Most people simply email each others phone to communicate. No auto-completing words if you're typing in english though, which is to be expected, so it can take awhile if you're not communicating in japanese.
First time meeting her, and I thought it went well, different style and atmosphere than my class on mondays, and similarly priced. Good addition, but I'm not really doing enough self-study the last week in between my attempts at conversation with people. I can do better.
On my way back, went to pick up my phone. I had set up a prepaid handset previously, but didn't have my alien registration card at the time. I was able to get the idea across, and then get an answer to my question regarding email (more in a moment), but it took forever! I don't know what was going on, but I was in that shop for more than an hour waiting for the guy to set things up on the computer. But it's all good, the phone itself is light, thin and sexy. With a camera, video screen, email, very nice. Talking on phones in Japan is very expensive, outgoing that is as any incoming calls are free. That's why people on limited plans needing to call someone, will often ask to be called back, reverse the charges as it were. Data though, is amazing. ¥300 and I have unlimited email from my phone for 30 days, then ¥300 after that to renew. Most people simply email each others phone to communicate. No auto-completing words if you're typing in english though, which is to be expected, so it can take awhile if you're not communicating in japanese.
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